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Proper resurfacing technique
  #1  
Old 01-17-2006, 01:18 PM
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Proper resurfacing technique

OK Boys & Girls, here's how I was instructed to resurface a bowling ball properly.
"This is primarily for Reactive Resin balls".

First option, use a Haas machine and NEW PADS everytime. Also, make sure you complete the required user maintenance on the machine at the specified intervals, otherwise, you just might end-up with an egg-shaped ball!

Second option, by-hand resurfacing.
Start with your ball as oil free as possible. Bake it, use kitty litter, drown it in hot water, whatever you prefer. Just get the oil out FIRST. I prefer to use the microfiber oil-free towels while bowling, thus reducing the baking time at the end of the cycle. (they really do work)

Next, take your ball and mark it in six, equi-distant locations. (note, you will have to take note of the equitorial locations as you do the one on top so you can re-mark them later). Mark it on top, bottom, (north pole/south pole) and equally around the equator, (4 positions)
Place the ball in the spinner with one of the above mentioned marks dead-center on top. With the spinner on, the mark should NOT wobble.
Next, start with your most agressive abrasive pad and a spray bottle of water. Apply firm pressure, (like forming a hamburger patty) for about 30 seconds while keeping the ball moist. Do this for all six positions, cleaning or replacing the abrasive between shifts. After all six "sides" have been done, clean the ball like you normally do. I use 409 with Orange.
Next, do the same with the next less abrasive pad you intend to use. I go Burgandy, Green, Grey then to sandpaper with a CAB block, or White and then to polish, cleaning the ball between every step with 409.

When you get to the point of polishing, if you so choose, ALWAYS start with the most agressive polish (lowest number) and work your way up. In the old days, Ebonite put out some fantastic liquid/paste polishes, with grit from 1000 to 5000. Now, I believe all you can get are Trizact pads or, what I use, Ebonite Factory Finish polish, (~ 1,500 grit) or Ebonite Extender polish, (~ 3,000 grit)

Apply the polish just like you did the sandpaper, in six steps, applying light pressure to cook it in, using a clean towel on each side. If you feel heat thru the towel, relax the pressure. After all six sides are done, clean the ball again.

If you want the "Mirror finish" look for a very late reaction, step the polish as high as you can. Upon application of the last step, let the towel get hot with pressure on all six sides.
I resurfaced my Pirannah C (green pearl) like this quite a while ago. Ball had so much snap on the back I had to dull it down. I went from 80 grit paper thru 100, 120, 180, 220, 360, 500, 1,000 to the 1,000 Ebonite polish thru 1,500, 2,000, 3,000, 4,000 and finally 5,000 polish. The towels were hot and green when I was done, but the ball looked great and moved really hard. Also, "cooking in" the polish tends to make the ball less conducive to sucking-up oil and easier to clean between sessions.

If you notice, the big common factor in this is cleaning between steps. VERY important as you don't want the dust you are creating to clog the pores of the ball. Particle balls are a little more touchy and require LESS pressure. Urethane and plastic, just be careful not to create a flat spot.

Fufu can probably shed a little more light on this, but I basically covered the whole process.
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Re: Proper resurfacing technique
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Old 01-17-2006, 01:30 PM
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Re: Proper resurfacing technique

good tip phatdon, this is the stuff we need to see.

As I am in the process of building a spinner, this info comes in handy for me
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Re: Proper resurfacing technique
  #3  
Old 01-17-2006, 01:48 PM
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Re: Proper resurfacing technique

trig, i built my own spinner and table stability was the biggest issue i had until i played around enough to get it just right.

Great write-up PD. Just what everyone at home with a spinner need to have handy. Making this 1 a sticky also.

Re: Proper resurfacing technique
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Old 01-17-2006, 02:38 PM
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Re: Proper resurfacing technique

not worried about that portion, as we build seats here I have access to all the steel tubing i want to build a quality stand, that and the mig welder downstairs and I am all set lol. now if i had a ball jig I could drill here on our mills.
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Re: Proper resurfacing technique
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Old 01-17-2006, 03:48 PM
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Re: Proper resurfacing technique

L1S, yeah, I meant to make it a sticky but had a blonde moment. I was trying to do a re-surface in my head and translate it to paper. When I finally got it done and in the block on here, I just hit post. Didn't even think about making the sticky note.
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Re: Proper resurfacing technique
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Old 01-17-2006, 07:00 PM
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Re: Proper resurfacing technique

Awsome post Phatdon.. I'm just going to print it out for when I need it..


Quote:
I went from 80 grit paper thru 100, 120, 180, 220, 360, 500, 1,000 to the 1,000 Ebonite polish thru 1,500, 2,000, 3,000, 4,000 and finally 5,000 polish
Is it a must to go through ALL those sanding steps... can you do like.. 100, 180, 360, 800. something like that.. or NOT..? and same with the polish.. if I only want it to 1,5000 can you just go to that first, or must you do the 1,000 first ?
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Re: Proper resurfacing technique
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Old 01-18-2006, 08:49 AM
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Re: Proper resurfacing technique

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedNeckRoller




Is it a must to go through ALL those sanding steps... can you do like.. 100, 180, 360, 800. something like that.. or NOT..? and same with the polish.. if I only want it to 1,5000 can you just go to that first, or must you do the 1,000 first ?
Yes, you can modify the grits you use however you decide. Just remember to ALWAYS start low and work up in numbers.
I was looking for something specific for a polished pearl ball with a fairly deep gouge in it. My steps took the gouge out and made the ball look fairly new. The serial number was still visible when I was done.
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Re: Proper resurfacing technique
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Old 08-01-2006, 01:48 AM
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Re: Proper resurfacing technique

you don't need to mark the ball. just use the grips.

side 1: grips facing up.
side 2: grips facing down.
side 3: grips facing side, fingers up.
side 4: grips facing side, fingers down.
side 5: grips facing side, fingers left.
side 6: grips facing side, fingers right.

it seems confusing at first, but after doing a few balls you'll get the hang of it.

Re: Proper resurfacing technique
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Old 03-15-2008, 06:47 PM
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Re: Proper resurfacing technique

When I resurface a ball, I do half the ball at a time. I rotate the ball 180 degrees and sand it. I then rotate the ball on a 90 degree axis (perpendicular to original sand lines) and sand it-both sides. So effectively the ball is broken up into only 2 quadrants, but rotated perpendicularly and sanded twice on each quadrant.

Re: Proper resurfacing technique
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Old 03-16-2008, 01:59 PM
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Re: Proper resurfacing technique

[quote=greggas;136386]you don't need to mark the ball. just use the grips.[quote]

True, for the experienced person. This post was intended to teach a newbie how to do it.
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Re: Proper resurfacing technique
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Old 03-16-2008, 02:02 PM
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Re: Proper resurfacing technique

Quote:
Originally Posted by latino View Post
When I resurface a ball, I do half the ball at a time. I rotate the ball 180 degrees and sand it. I then rotate the ball on a 90 degree axis (perpendicular to original sand lines) and sand it-both sides. So effectively the ball is broken up into only 2 quadrants, but rotated perpendicularly and sanded twice on each quadrant.
AS long as you can get equal pressure on ALL sides of the ball, keep going this way. Otherwise, you'll have an egg.
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Re: Proper resurfacing technique
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Old 06-06-2009, 07:08 PM
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Re: Proper resurfacing technique

I thought the following should be added to this sticky thread

Here is an answer that a guy on BR got from Roto Grip. It is consistent with common sense logic and with the USBC ball motion study.
http://www.ballreviews.com/Forum/Rep...7&CategoryID=5

Thank you for contacting us with your concern. As far as ball reaction is concerned, we have several recommendations to maintain ball performance and life, but the primary area of concern is with the surface topography of the ball. As a quick over-view, surface topography in the bowling industry has been measured with specific ‘Ra’ and ‘Rs’ standards. These values directly relate to how aggressive the coverstock is and how much friction the coverstock can generate. The Ra value measures the standard deviations above or below the surface of the ball. For example, a series of high peaks and low valleys would be measured with an extremely high Ra value. Likewise, the Great Plains with a relatively smooth landscape and rolling hills would have a low Ra value. Rs isn’t as important, but by definition is the average distance between each individual peaks.

The reason these numbers are important is because of the correlation between ball reaction and high Ra and Rs values. Essentially, the greater the Ra and Rs number, the more friction the coverstock can generate. The more friction the coverstock can generate, the greater hook potential the ball will have. What happens when a ball dies is the coverstock has lost the surface deviations originally found on the ball from the out of box finish. These deviations (high Ra and Rs numbers) are created in our finishing and rounding process by creating deep grooves, cuts, and scars on the surface of ball. Later, when the ball is finished, these rough surface deviations are smoothed and ‘polished’ but they aren’t completely removed. If you were to then examine the coverstock on a micron level, the steep peaks and valleys would still be on the surface of the ball, but they would be rounded. This creates the type of ball motion where the ball will still skid through the heads and midlanes cleanly, but still have a tremendous amount of friction generation capabilities as the ball enters the buff or exits the pattern.

However, as the ball encounters normal use, these peaks slowly flatten and the valleys collapse. If measured after normal use, the once high Ra and Rs numbers would be much lower than the previous out of box finish. Hence, the ball slowly loses ball reaction with each use. Cleaning the surface will help keep the ball reaction consistent and also break down lane oil, but it isn’t capable of restoring original out of box Ra and Rs values. Luckily, our research has found a fairly simple method to restore the out of box finish.

In order to restore these numbers, abralon pads are recommended for virtually every ball in our current or past production line. The easiest and fastest way to refinish the ball is to use a 360 grit abralon pad on the ball. If the ball is being finished by machine, 60 seconds is usually sufficient whereas other methods may take longer. The whole idea is to thoroughly, cut, scar and groove the surface of the ball with the 360 grit pad. Before finishing the 360 grit, make sure the entire surface of the ball has been evenly cut. If it is done by hand or by a ball spinner, a cross-hatch finish is recommended. For the next stage, very lightly sand the surface with a 500 grit abralon pad. This will lower the Ra and Rs values slightly, but it isn’t going to completely destroy the surface deviations created from the previous stage.

After the ball has been lightly sanded with 500 grit abralon, please skip directly to the original out of box finish. For example a 4000 grit finish, no polish would require using a 360 grit abralon pad, then light application of a 500 abralon pad finally, skip the 1000 and 2000 stages and go directly to the 4000 finish. The 360 and 500 grit abralon pads will reproduce the original deep grooves and cuts from the factory rounding and finishing process setting the foundation for the final finish. Then, by skipping directly to the 4000 grit abralon stage, the surface will be smoothed and ‘polished’ without destroying the surface deviations. This effectively leaves the surface with the high peaks and deep valleys, but they aren’t as sharp or jagged. This should restore the original ball reaction allowing the ball to skid on oil, read the lighter buff areas of the pattern and still have amazing recovery potential on the backend.

For polished balls, reproduce the 360 and 500 grit finish and then apply Storm Step 2 Finishing Compound. This is the exact same finishing compound we use on all of our 1500 grit polished balls. The trick to the polish application is to use less polish and very light pressure. Step 2 Finishing Compound has a resurfacing medium in it that sands the ball while it is being polished over-application of the compound will effectively destroy the same surface deviations that originally gave the ball it’s strong out of box finish.

The key to restoring any finish is deeply cutting the ball with the fresh 360 grit abralon pad and then very lightly applying a 500 grit pad. The same is true of the final step as well. Over-application of the 1000, 2000, or 4000 grit pads can destroy the surface deviations created by the 360 and 500 steps weakening the over-all ball reaction.

Hopefully, if the sanding process has been repeated successfully, the end results will yield a ball with nearly the exact same Ra and Rs values originally found on the out of box finish restoring life back into the ball.
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Re: Proper resurfacing technique
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Old 06-06-2009, 11:37 PM
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Re: Proper resurfacing technique

As usual GREAT information on this site
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Re: Proper resurfacing technique
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Old 07-27-2013, 08:34 AM
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Re: Proper resurfacing technique

Sorry for resurrect an old thread but this question has bothers me alot. Just got my spinner follow the guide here resurface works great. However, I'm a little bit confuse about polish.

1. How long do we need to polish each side of the ball? The guide said that we need to cook the polish into the ball with heat, so does it mean the longer we keep the polishing pad on the ball, the better?

2. On the contrary, I read it somewhere on this forum as well, some person said if we polish the ball for too long, the ball will lose alot of its reaction, is it true? If so, what is the proper time frame that we need to polish on each side of the ball, to make the ball shiny and keep it from losing its reaction?

3. Does the amount of polish affect the shine of the ball, more polish = shinier? Or the shine just depend on what kind of polish we use?

Last edited by lidolinn2; 07-27-2013 at 09:00 AM.

Re: Proper resurfacing technique
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Old 07-27-2013, 09:39 AM
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Re: Proper resurfacing technique

Quote:
Originally Posted by lidolinn2 View Post
Sorry for resurrect an old thread but this question has bothers me alot. Just got my spinner follow the guide here resurface works great. However, I'm a little bit confuse about polish.

1. How long do we need to polish each side of the ball? The guide said that we need to cook the polish into the ball with heat, so does it mean the longer we keep the polishing pad on the ball, the better?

2. On the contrary, I read it somewhere on this forum as well, some person said if we polish the ball for too long, the ball will lose alot of its reaction, is it true? If so, what is the proper time frame that we need to polish on each side of the ball, to make the ball shiny and keep it from losing its reaction?

3. Does the amount of polish affect the shine of the ball, more polish = shinier? Or the shine just depend on what kind of polish we use?
1) 'Cook the polish' into the ball, means generate heat between ball and the polishing pad with the polish with firm pressure. Once it starts getting warm (HOT) is the general rule I go by. It doesn't take more than a few seconds.

2) Reread RevZ's post about Ra & Rs. If you over polish, you will reduce the Ra resulting in more skid in oil.

Too much polishing can/will result in a ball that over/under reacts to lane conditions. For a THS, I prefer to use polish over wet sanded surfaces of 320-400 or even 600 to avoid the over/under ball reaction, except on spare balls.

3) The amount of shine is more dependent upon the type of polish used. As an example Perfect-It by 3M is a good example of a 'buff' finish polish, just slightly shiny. If one were to continue to use Perfect-It for an extended time, it would get more shine. Why? The grit breaks down to a smaller grit that will smooth out the surface more, all that is needed is a little water to lubricate the surface. Ebonite has a 'Factory Finish Polish' and "Extender Polish' for 'Higher Luster, smooth finish to increase length'. The choices are near endless.

Also, there are the Abralon, Siaair, NEAT pads that give a finish very similar to polishes without the shine. 3M pads for quick touch ups at the lanes in gray and maroon and other colors/grits.
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Re: Proper resurfacing technique
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Old 07-27-2013, 09:49 AM
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Re: Proper resurfacing technique

Quote:
Originally Posted by georgeh View Post
1) 'Cook the polish' into the ball, means generate heat between ball and the polishing pad with the polish with firm pressure. Once it starts getting warm (HOT) is the general rule I go by. It doesn't take more than a few seconds.

2) Reread RevZ's post about Ra & Rs. If you over polish, you will reduce the Ra resulting in more skid in oil.

Too much polishing can/will result in a ball that over/under reacts to lane conditions. For a THS, I prefer to use polish over wet sanded surfaces of 320-400 or even 600 to avoid the over/under ball reaction, except on spare balls.

3) The amount of shine is more dependent upon the type of polish used. As an example Perfect-It by 3M is a good example of a 'buff' finish polish, just slightly shiny. If one were to continue to use Perfect-It for an extended time, it would get more shine. Why? The grit breaks down to a smaller grit that will smooth out the surface more, all that is needed is a little water to lubricate the surface. Ebonite has a 'Factory Finish Polish' and "Extender Polish' for 'Higher Luster, smooth finish to increase length'. The choices are near endless.

Also, there are the Abralon, Siaair, NEAT pads that give a finish very similar to polishes without the shine. 3M pads for quick touch ups at the lanes in gray and maroon and other colors/grits.
Thanks George, thats very helpful, Guess I have to redo my beautiful shiny misfit pearl xD, I go at
Polishing for about 2 mins each side lol. The ball is at 1000 grit right now, should I star over at 360 work my way up again to create the Ra again, or just take the polish off by 1000 pad and re-polish it lightly?

Re: Proper resurfacing technique
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Old 07-27-2013, 10:11 AM
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Re: Proper resurfacing technique

Quote:
Originally Posted by lidolinn2 View Post
Thanks George, thats very helpful, Guess I have to redo my beautiful shiny misfit pearl xD, I go at
Polishing for about 2 mins each side lol. The ball is at 1000 grit right now, should I star over at 360 work my way up again to create the Ra again, or just take the polish off by 1000 pad and re-polish it lightly?
I would try the 1000 first, no polish, before a complete redo. Most centers during the summer have less oil out on the lanes and some less texture (like 1000 over a polished surface) may be just the ticket.

Re: Proper resurfacing technique
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Old 07-27-2013, 03:05 PM
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Re: Proper resurfacing technique

Quote:
Originally Posted by lidolinn2 View Post
Sorry for resurrect an old thread but this question has bothers me alot. Just got my spinner follow the guide here resurface works great. However, I'm a little bit confused about polish.

1. How long do we need to polish each side of the ball? The guide said that we need to cook the polish into the ball with heat, so does it mean the longer we keep the polishing pad on the ball, the better?
The answer to this, in general, is relative to what you want/need the ball to do and goes along with the answers to #2 and #3. You should polish at least 2 sides but many people do 4 sides. 6 is overkill.

The harder you press, the hotter the surface will get and the more you will burn the polish into the ball. Actually burn is a good term because all polishes are or contain micro-abrasives. When you polish a bowling ball, you are NOT applying a coating, like varnish or lacquer or polyurethane. You are sanding the ball to 5000 or higher grit.


Quote:
2. On the contrary, I read it somewhere on this forum as well, some person said if we polish the ball for too long, the ball will lose alot of its reaction, is it true? If so, what is the proper time frame that we need to polish on each side of the ball, to make the ball shiny and keep it from losing its reaction?
No, it's not possible for polish to make a ball lose its reaction, but you can change its reaction dramatically so it appears to lose it reaction. The finer the starting grit level under the polish, the more abrasive the polish, the more polish you apply and the longer you apply it, the longer the ball is going to go before it hooks, and the more dry it will need to see before it begins to hook.

The proper time frame for polish is as long as is needed to reach the level of shine to get the length your ball speed, your rev rate, your tilt, the oil on which you are bowling requires. In other words, it all depends on you. There are easy starting points: 1500 or 2000 grit sanding followed by a light dose of a decent bowling ball polish that is not too abrasive (Valentino's Snake Oil is a great polish).

Of course you have to first decide if polish is what you need.I mean, yu may just need a finer surface than the one that is on your ball now. It could be 2000 grit dull and you might just need to sand it to 4000 grit and leave it dull to get the right length for your release and the oil you are on.

Quote:
3. Does the amount of polish affect the shine of the ball, more polish = shinier? Or the shine just depend on what kind of polish we use?
There are many types of polish with all degrees of abrasiveness in it. They range from very little abrasiveness in Snake Oil (it has so little it is considered to be a non-abrasive polish. Motiv's Gel polish is another with very little abrasive.) to Brunswick's Rough Buff and Storm's Step #2 polish. These are so abrasive I tend to think of them as compounds rather than polishes.

The more polish you apply when using a very abrasive polish, the finer the surface will be and the shinier it will get. You can apply a polish by hand and just rub it on and get very little shine if any.

Re: Proper resurfacing technique
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Old 07-27-2013, 03:30 PM
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Re: Proper resurfacing technique

Crazy this thread came up....was just talking to my bowling partner about this today.
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