This will probably only be able to be answered by the old school bowlers, but I need help none the less and I am beating my head in trying to find answers. I have a Brunswick TWISTER urethane that I won in the early 90's. I was 16 at the time, and never had the ball drilled. I am back into bowling once again and want to get this ball drilled for use. The problem I have is that I have NO clue about this balls performance other than the hype of advertisment back in it's day of release. Is there anyone here that has owned or does own this ball and can give me a little insight? I want to know all you can tell me about this ball..and please don't be too technical with me, I don't know all the tech terms...I currently bowl with a Columbia BLACK KNIGHT, which is the ball I won the TWISTER with in that tourney. I love my Black Knight and how well it still works for me. I can't throw a lot of Revs anymore, I don't have hand strength I used to due to an illness. Anyhow...any help or reviews would be great. Thanks!
Basically, there are 4 types of bowling ball coverstocks with way-too-many core/coverstock combinations.
Plastic. Most balls made up until about 1981 were pancake weight blocks with plastic or polyester covers. The Black Knight falls into that category. Very hard, shiny surface and were made to knock down pins on wooden lanes with little to no oil on the surface.
Urethane: One step up from plastic, dominated the bowling world till about 1989. Softer feel coverstock, not nearly as hard or shiny as plastic. Generally dull but can be polished. Also, core changes started to come into play. Not everything was a pancake. AND, synthetic lane surfaces began to appear so bowlers wanted something more than a straight ball delivery.
Reactive Urethane/Resin: Developed sometime in the late 80's. Basically a very pourous version of urethane. Generally dull, polished or pearlized. Designed to give the player more surface area to work with since it actually heats up a bit while rolling in oil. Also considerably softer than urethane. The pores will absorb oil as the ball is working. In combination with the right core shape and drilling, the same part of the ball will rarely touch the lane twice, (except for the "bowtie"), while it travels down the lane. Oil patterns no longer matter.
Particle: Basically, microscopic bits of rubber, mica, silica or some other substance ball manufacturers add to the reactive resin to give the ball a "studded snow tire" effect on the lanes. Can be dull, polished or pearlized. Designed for very heavy oil patterns and controled movement on the back ends. Generally, will not have a skid/snap reaction as most of the ball movement, (hook), happens in the middle part of the lane.
That's the basics, I probably forgot something but it's early and I'm old!
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